Day 5. Devastating Cyclone
After a strikingly good night's sleep in the small tent and a breakfast with strong coffee, we're fully packed around 8 o'clock and continue our adventure.
The landscape has instantly changed. The bare hills have made
place for lush vegetation. We're now crossing the territory
of the lemurs, the endemic mongooses and the mysterious predator Fossa.
The devastating effect of the cyclone is getting clearly visible.
Everywhere trees are tossed against the banks like snapped twigs.
The area is becoming rougher and is starting to meet our expectations
of Madagascar.
We dock at a white sandy bank surrounded by dense forests and
we walk to a tiny village with five small cabins. Rija tells us
that these people have lost all their belongings to the storm.
So he brings them food, a big bag of Cassava. There are three
little children busy preparing food. Their parents are nowhere
to be seen, they're probably out in the woods or amongst the banks
looking for food. We give the kids some toys and clothes that
we've brought from holland. They quickly pull it on. They look
like new and are visibly proud of their new outfit.
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| mr.
Langa |
Back at the river we see a man holding a crocodile on its tail
that he's just caught and killed. I also see the empty shell
of a turtle lying in the sand. Sad, but understandable; especially
when you live in an area that can only be reached by boat and
has just been hit by a cyclone. Here's only one matter that
counts: survival. An endangered animal species is the last thing
to worry about.
We leave the people behind and descend into the 'gorge'. We
now have truly arrived in the jungle. To the left and right
nothing but impenetrable forest. For hours we don't see a single
person.Then suddenly i spot them: Sifaka's! The lemurs are swinging
acrobatically through the trees along the banks. At some points
they stop to observe us in curiosity. They're easily spotted
because of their white fur. They have no natural enemies so
they probably don't need camouflage.
We further descend into the spectacular ravine as Rija discovers
a troop of brown lemurs. We quickly dock and climb into the
dense woods and try to see the rare animals from closer range.
The banks are covered with petrified shells. This has probably
been an ocean, a long time ago. The hunt for the lemurs requires
a significant amount of effort. The sun is shining without mercy;
sweat flows down my face. I estimate humidity at 100%.
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| refreshment |
Around afternoon we reach the spot where we'll have lunch.
A blue creek comes from the forest which we follow upstream
until we reach a beautiful waterfall. Gratefully we jump into
the refreshing water and enjoy a welcome bath. Downstream, a
big pan of tasty pasta is prepared for us. Ain' t life good
being a tourist!
We continue our way in the pirogue and for hours we enjoy the
lush nature around us. Around six, when the sun has already
set, it's time to settle the camp. This place is greener than
yesterday's place. We hear the distant calls of lemurs. Suddenly
a muttered screech sounds from behind a rock. Mr Langa finally
has taken the chickens out of their misery. Not much later,
we see them back on our plates. Much to my disappointment, they're
like leather and barely eatable. Such a long way full of misery,
being tied up under a burning sun, ending up only being eaten
half. What an ungrateful destination for the poor chicken.
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