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Day 18. Tanjona - Manambolosy


The next morning we have regained our strength and after breakfast we're ready to go for it. We say goodbye to Olivier - with whom i could communicate in french surprisingly well, given that he took quite some time to think over each word he pronounced - and we start walking around 8. We are now halfway the journey, 60 kilometers from Mananara. We're lucky with today's weather: it's clouded, no burning sun, and a fresh wind is blowing. Sulufunirina Beau Michel (Suluf for friends), our guide, constantly tries to arrange transport for us, and plans several rests, but we're full of energy. Much to the hilarity of the porters, we just keep going.

We reach the border between the Maroantsetra - Mananara region where we trade a can of sardines for Lychees - about 5 kilos is picked from a tree for us. We cross a wide river by pirogue. About 5 kilometers off stream is a large rainforests where lemurs still occur, and according to Suluf, this area has a good chance of becoming a protected park in the near future.

After the crossing, a tough hike uphill awaits us through a dull area, where the sun is shining ruthlessly again. When we've almost had enough of it we stop for our lunch and have a 2 hours rest.

I have a refreshing dive in the Indian Ocean on a huge unspoiled beach, and we continue our journey. The surroundings now resemble a tropical holiday island with grassy lawns full of palm trees with some small houses right next to a deep blue ocean. The people that pass us by now and then salute us. When we rest at some point the kids come out to observe the vazaha's, but always keep at least 20 meters of distance from us, let alone them asking us for presents.

We arrive in a village where Suluf wants to camp. He fears that we won't make it to to our actual goal, Manambolosy. The nearby village is 5 kilometers away and it's another 5 to Manambolosy. We decide nontheless to continue to the next village.

We're forced to take a shortcut. A bridge has collapsed so we walk over the beach instead and use a pirogue for a crossing. After just 40 minutes we arrive in the next village. So we decide, much to the joy of the porters, to cover the last 5 as well. After an hour Manambolosy looms up - a village of means in comparison the the previous ones. We covered 40 kilometers today and we definitely can feel that in our legs. But we're somewhat proud, too!

We're only 20 kilometers away from Mananara. Manambolosy appears as some sort of wild west town. There are some generators for electricity and we find a hotely for 4.000 ariary (1,80 euro). A better option than camping on the beach - a firm shower hangs in the sky. We invite all the boys for a "cold" beer, share our nuts and rum, and the Vazaha's can't do anything wrong - at least for the day!





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